I’m not a huge fan of Dane Cook, but the above line from his stand-up wonderfully explains the vibe I’ve gotten at specific times while in Korea. It’s a feeling that leaves one speechless when certain acts reach a level of intensity that, from where I’m coming from, don’t compute.
A couple weeks ago, I was sitting at my desk in the faculty office when my principal and the school’s accountant walked in. They walked up to my teacher’s desk, next to mine, and began speaking to her in an elevated tone. The accountant stood between my desk and hers while the principle, who did most of the talking, stood behind my teacher-a posture teeming with domination. Sitting in her chair my co-teacher swiveled to address the principal. Her facial and audible expressions were upset with a slight air of defiance suggesting she was standing up for herself. The principal became more belligerent-rapping on the back of my co-teacher’s chair and shoving a finger in her face, as if to demonstrate the severity of his point. All the while the accountant chuckled menacingly.
The accountant’s mocking snicker grew in frequency and my sense of comfort was waning fast. I stayed, seated in my chair, staring off into space to show that this sort of behavior would not intimidate me. I was there to support my co-teacher who was obviously having a hard time. Besides I got the sense that this had something to do with me. There had been a vibe of tension surrounding my arrival and the extra work it created (I’m the first foreigner to teach at this school). My co-teacher had been feeling the pressure most.
The accountant broke from his position and turned to me.
“What are you doing?” he asked.
“Just sitting here.” I respectfully, but somewhat defiantly replied. The question was a little inappropriately delivered given the context.
“What search engine do you use? Yahoo?”
“I like google, I guess.” What an absurd question, I thought, under these circumstances.
“Yahoo is best.”
Now, I haven’t used yahoo since 98′, but I sure as hell wasn’t interested in engaging in this discussion while my co-teacher was getting hung out to dry. The accountant tried to engage me in other topics of small talk while moving away from the principal/co-teacher. I got the sense that he wanted me to leave the room, but I was not about to leave my post.
Before long the principal walked out in a huff trailed by the accountant. I turned to my co-teacher who seemed to be near the point of tears. She meekly fidgeted with her things before standing up and looking at me. “Let’s go,” she said before walking toward the door, “Take a picture.” It was school picture day after-all (I had not been previously informed).
I understood that she was the main target for bullshit since most of Korea runs on a male dominated hierarchy. She’s the youngest female in the school save the students and is fresh out of the University. I felt awful that I had somehow made the situation worse by staying put and not leaving the room when things began to get heated. But I also felt that it was my duty at that moment to show my silent support, however ignorant it may have been.
The next day I was able to talk with my teacher about what had happened. As per usual things were not as they seemed. She said she didn’t really know why the principal had been so angry (I didn’t completely buy this), but that he is “very strange” and she is the youngest, hence the lowest crap magnet on the depth chart. She said he was mainly complaining about a 3,000 won (3 USD) taxi fee I’d written on my transportation receipt. I’d presented my list of transportation-to-school costs that Monday, as requested, and was told everything was fine.
Instead of taking the problem up with me my principal attacked my co-teacher. The situation was simply that my co-teacher and I had shared a cab the previous week and I had forgotten she’d paid (she was technically on a business trip so her transportation costs were being reimbursed).
Why the principal had attacked my co-teacher is beyond me (and apparently her), but I think it has something to do with the fact that she is responsible for me. In Korea I’ve noticed that when one makes a mistake it can be blamed on a superior for not making sure said mistake was prevented. I believe this is one of the pressures associated with responsibility. It also falls under the realm of saving face-a major Korean consideration. The accountant, with his heckling and tangential questioning, was merely trying to lighten the mood, explained my co-teacher (an instance of saving face). This makes sense now, but at the time my Korean meter was malfunctioning (maybe it was set on USA). I’ve since come to know the accountant as a rather nice guy.
Situations such as these are not too unfamiliar in Korea. Corporal punishment, for example, is alive and well in Korea. I commonly see a kid brought forth in front of the class and slapped on the palms (my elementary school teacher likes using a drumstick) while being lectured. Older kids often go through what’s similar to high school football drills or pain tolerance testing (usually holding awkward positions). From what I can tell it doesn’t make for any lasting damage. Anyways, my parents spanked me until it no longer had an effect; they switched to soap/vinegar in the mouth (sometimes my mom would give us a choice like some kind of sick game show).
Without going any further, I’d like to stay away from value judgments in this case and rather state that it’s often helpful to let a culture do its thing during moments of intense contrast. Often, through later consideration and explanation, things are not as oft putting or extreme as they appear. Much can be gleaned from the extremes and ,well, I sometimes like the rush.

Hey Ross
I really enjoy your posts.
Have you considered a writting career? I think it would
come naturally to you.
You have wonderful insight into things and are able
to articulate it.
By the way, I used Tabasco on my kids.
Hugs, Mariann (your mothers friend)
Thanks for the kind words Mariann. At this point in my life I’ll take any job that’s interesting and/or pays. The blog is interesting. I’m glad you like it.
Hi Ross,
I’m Lorraine Campbell’s niece. She forwarded your blog on to me because I taught in Korea in 2005-2006. The blog is great, and I’m really enjoying reading it! This one I particularly identified with, though. I was the youngest teacher on our staff (not to mention a woman), and, in fact, the youngest teacher my school had ever hired. I was, of course, reminded of this on a daily basis. For the longest time I thought this was supposed to be compliment, but I eventually learned that they had just been trying to put me in my place! Kudos to you for probably catching on much quicker than me! I also liked the way you described the corporal punishment. My kindergarteners always had to stand with their “hands up” when they were in trouble. It hurt, but I think it was more humiliating than painful. And then there was the day when I was so furious with my 12 year-olds that I stormed into the teachers lounge and said, “I’m so mad, I could just HIT them!” Without missing a beat, the head teacher looked at me and with complete sincerity replied, “Oh, you can hit them!” Goodness! Hang in there and enjoy!
Emily
Thanks for checking out the blog Emily. I’m glad you like it. I know what you mean being the youngest. Although, being male shields me from some of the flack my girlfriend gets; they just don’t always directly mention it when I’m messing up. I know what you mean about the frustration. It’s tough to wrangle the young ones w/o a strong grasp on the language, but I can’t muster the grit to hand out the degrading hand slaps. The problems get less severe every day, thankfully.
Ross,
I like your blog. Brings back memories of serving n Korea.
You’d probably be surprised to learn that what you are witnessing now is “mild” compared to even 10 years ago. My first tour in Korea (1996) saw a fair amount of physical discipline exerted on Korean soldier’s by their superiors. My last tour (2005) I learned that “tree line counseling” or physical discipline had been banned in the Korean Army.
My Korean soldier’s were always telling me how “easy” kids have it today. How easy their parents are on them, etc. Sounds just like American’s huh?
Anyhow, great writing. I enjoy the posts. Have fun in Korea. Go easy on the Soju and Makal
Dave
Thanks for the props Dave. It’s amazing how fast Korea’s changing; always cool to hear from people who saw it before I have. I hear lots of stories from Koreans in the military seeing as it’s required for every male. My one friend served on the DMZ about 10 years ago. I wonder if he caught any woopings? He pretty much talks about how they alternated between watch and sleeping/eating. Anyways, glad you enjoy the posts.
Hey Ross,
I really enjoy your writing. So rich, it takes me right there. Sounds like you have an adventure each and every day, and that you’re also taking it very well. Living and working in another culture is obviously a challenge as well as a learning experience, and something I will do someday, and more than just 8 days!
I look forward to hearing more of your tales of teaching and living on the islands!
Carol Stoddart
Thanks Carol. I’m glad you enjoy the blog. I’d say it’s never a dull moment on Nohwa, but we certainly have our share of down time. Of course, every day’s a new thing and we’re soaking it up.
I had SO many similar situations with my main school on Jindo. My coteacher was the youngest, and also female, just as yours is, and it made her the crap magnet (I love your term!). I can’t even recall the number of times I saw the principal, VP, and even other teachers behave exactly like this towards her, often reducing her to near tears. I cannot understand how such a work environment is even remotely productive. I was ecstatic when they finally gave me my own desk in another room, so I didn’t have to hear it any more.
It’s great to hear from someone who’s been there. I feel terrible for my co-teacher and what she puts up with, but, like you said, the working environment is next to nonproductive and that just ain’t helping. It’s a strange lens-the Korean worldview. Fortunately, time slowly but surely offers insight. Bringing that insight to terms with my western modality is a completely different story (perhaps that of this blog). Thanks for the kind words once again!
[...] life on Jindo, and he has been able to put into words many of the situations I was not (things like this happened to me all the time, for instance). If you want to get an indirect idea of what my life [...]